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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 8:21 pm 
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Posts: 67
Next is the thigh and Shine parts trimming

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Before trimming
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After trimming and use masking tape to assemble
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Try to ware and find that they are too long. They need to be trimmed further. For example, I trimmed 4 cm on the shine.
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Also need to polish the edges and then tried to wear again till felt fit.
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Used a 22mm wide strip to connect the front parts
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Used a 40mm wide and 0.5mm thick abs strip at the back and then put velcro tape on it.

Now tried to wear it with boot
Front view
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side view
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Another side view
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Back view
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Didn't feel good on the Velcro tape effect. The gap was too large.
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The cover strip didn't have the curve profile to fit the back part of the leg.

Finally created a method to resolve it.

First got 2 pieces of ABS sheet (A4). Draw the size of the cover strip on the sheets. Bent the sheets and used strings to tie them up.
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Put them into hot water for 10 minutes and then took them out. Untie the strings and cut the strips out
Here was the result
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Glued it back.
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This was the result after wearing it. Compared the previous one, was it better?
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 8:42 pm 
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Next trimmed the waist belt, ammo belt and the two shoulder belt.

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How to bend them was a puzzle to me. Saw a lot of methods in the forum - using heat gun, using hair dryer or even using fire from my stove. But using hot water is the best. It is easy, clean , safe and fast.

Just put them in a container and then pour hot water on them. Wait around 10 minutes.
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DONE.
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Next to thigh. As my thigh size is large and short, I need to make a V-shape profile. So I used a V-shape abs plate to achieve this.

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Later need to put epoxy and sand and then sprayed paint it.

Then rivet the ammo belt to the right thigh.
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 12:41 pm 
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Next glued the sniper plate on the left shin

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Trimmed off the hand plates
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 11:08 am 
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Posts: 67
Strapping on the hand plate was easy and simple
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Snaps on the Shin. Actually this one is not necessary but I prefer to do it as I planned to hang my armor in the living room with mannequin.
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Now go to the thigh. You can see the V-Shap
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Snaps on the thigh. I made 4 here.
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Lower two were to connect to Shin
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and the upper two were to connect to the shoulder straps.
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I used a clip buckle for the ease of locking and the strap length is adjustable too.
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Completed both sides
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With straps
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Here is how it is hanged on the mannequin.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 8:52 pm 
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Location: Ossus & Tampines SG
Power lar!!! i used belt system for my thighs. My shins just grip my boots & stay in place.

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A jedi's ally is the FORce, his strength flows from IT.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2015 11:34 am 
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Now front armor

Trimmed and put snap plates on the shoulder and middle part of the chest armor
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Completed
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Glue the straps on the AB armor and joine together with the Chest armor
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Put other snap plates accordingly pn the AB armor
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Front view
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Also color the AB armor front buttons according to FISD standard.
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Snap also the straps on two sides
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Now go back to the Chest armor. Glued the two shoulder belt on the chest armor and prepared the white straps with snaps for the shoulder belt as shown here
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snap the white strap on the right side
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left side.
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Tried with the back plate. I used 2 white elastic band to hold the un-glue end of the should belt in position. I heard this is only required for the next level EIB or Centurian
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2015 2:04 pm 
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For the snaps positions, FISD forum has a lot of good info for reference. Examples as below
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Now we go to the belt production first.

Ammo pack box
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Make the white straps to hang the box on the canvas belt
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On the Canvas belt, you need to make 5 holes. 3 holes are for snaps to hold the plastic belt
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The other two holes with distance of 328mm is for two snaps to hold the canvas belt to AB armor
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Made snaps on the back of ammo pack box
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The length of the straps is better to have a gap of around 5mm
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Completed front view with the holster
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Back view
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Now put the belt on the front armor
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Back view
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Side View
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 10:49 am 
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Now next is back-side armor

The original armor for the butt and kidney is in one piece. So I need to cut it into two. This is also the requirement of ANH Stunt. Also I think the advantage is for the ease of bending or even sitting.
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Then put snap plates on the each of them.
On the kidney plate. the upper snap plates are for connecting to back plate. The lower 4 snap plates are for connecting to butt plate. Two snap plates on each left and right side are to connect the ab armor.
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External view of kidney plate
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On the butt plate. I also need to trim half inch to shorten it. Also needed to glue a strap with two snaps near the butt end side. The strap is to connect to the front of of the AB armor.
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External view of Butt plate
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Combine two of them together. 2 of the snaps plates on the kidney plate were not used, dummy.
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Next is the back plate
Trimming of back plate
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Add in the snap plates near shoulders and glued straps at the lower end.
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Combined it with the lower back plate and butt plate
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External look
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Finally the whole front and back armor
Front view
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Back view
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Erected views
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Internal views
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 5:28 pm 
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Now for the Thermal Detonator. It consists of 3 parts
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The kit doesn't include the Aluminum strips. I needed to buy from hardware shop. Needed to cut the right length and also filed the corners to smooth curves profile

Glued the cover on the pipe first to fix and decide the AL strip positions on two sides. Then drilled holes and riveted one end of the strip. Then bent the strip around the pipe and drill another hole and riveted another holes.

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Then bent back when it nearly reached the top.
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This formed the two hooks on the belt
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Tried to wear
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It was too high and needed to lower a little bit.

This is the completed kit
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The last part of this post is how to mod the Hasbro gun to the E11 blaster.

To be Continue.............


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 9:02 pm 
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This is the Hasbro gun I was going to mod.

Image. You can buy from e-bay or Amazon.

The Mod kit was from Doopy Doos
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In order to open the gun. first cut out the sides of the optic scope
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The cut out the gun tip
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Now we can open the gun.
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Took out the red color barrel
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Reassembled back the gun
Positioned the mod kit parts to the correct points and checked
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Because I wanted to retain the electronic sound and lighting. I re-opened the gun and put a transparent tube on the original red color barrel.
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But before I closed it, I spray printed the internal first with Matt black.
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Then put two paper strips to seal up the windows and put back the transparent barrel. The paper strip is to mask tape the barrel when I spray painted the whole blaster. Also remember to seal up the two sides of the optic scope and the lens a the gun tip.
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Now assembled back the gun and glued the mod kit parts firmly.
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Next spray a layer of premier white
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The spray another layer of metal silver
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Spray a layer of Flat Black
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Finally spray a layer of Gun Metal
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Completed. Remember to take out the paper strips trhought he window with a tweezer.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 6:29 pm 
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One thing - For those who want to DIY his own metal clips of the thermal detonator, you can get from me the Aluminum strip (1 inch wide and 2 feet long, 1mm thick). One strip can do 4 clips.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 2:01 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:34 pm
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Location: Ossus & Tampines SG
Steve, great job! Salute you for your work! Do drop by our workshop at Des place. Its in Tampines too! You can lend a hand or two to the recruits.

_________________
A jedi's ally is the FORce, his strength flows from IT.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 5:14 pm 
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TK40773, truly I am impressed with your work. I will review it a few times before my kit arrive


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 7:26 pm 
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darthfroggie wrote:
TK40773, truly I am impressed with your work. I will review it a few times before my kit arrive

Take your time. It will be a long journey. Be patient !


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 9:58 am 
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Steven,

Can you share where you bought your neck seal from? Thanks!


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